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2006 Burgans Albariño Bodegas Martin Codax
Rías Baixas D.O., Spain +1019581
Tired of recommending Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc to those jaded palates? Try this delightful and non-traditional white wine. Not a sipper – but it’s a great food wine with sufficient versatility to complement a broad spectrum of seafood. From the Rías Baixas appellation in Galicia, in northwestern Spain, this wine is 100% Albariño and has a unique flavour profile. It is named after Mount Burgans where the winery is located. Floral, mineral and citrus overtones on the nose. Neither fermented nor aged in wood, it exudes tropical fruit flavours on the palate and is round, lush and well-balanced. The result is a wine that is dry, crisp and refreshing despite its weight, and has a lingering finish with great mouthfeel. Robert Parker has noted that, in terms of bang for buck, this Albariño has no challengers. I agree wholeheartedly. It’s a recommendation that will keep the customers coming back for more of your “discoveries.”
2006 Château de Cabriac Rouge
Corbières, France +315119
The Languedoc-Roussillon region in the south of France, long a source of good-quality, inexpensive wines for domestic consumption, is making its mark in international markets. One of the most promising appellations within Languedoc-Roussillon is Corbières. The 2006 Château de Cabriac is a classic illustration of what’s right in the region. A blend of four classic grapes of southern France – 30% Syrah, 25% Mourvèdre, 25% old vines Carignan and 20% Grenache – this wine represents terrific value. Spice, peppers and clove protrude on the nose, supplemented by rich herbal flavours on the palate. The wine is rich, supple, beautifully balanced with a long, layered finish. It matches particularly well with hearty fare, but can also pair well with lighter Mediterranean cuisine. Ready to drink now with a five-year plateau of maturity. Superb value!
2006 Sonoma Zinfandel Seghesio Family Vineyards
Sonoma County, California +731726
Since 1895, four generations of the Seghesio family have lovingly tended some of the finest Sonoma County vineyards. This wine comes primarily from four estate vineyards: Home Ranch, San Lorenzo and River Road in Alexander Valley and Cortina in the Dry Creek Valley. Zinfandel, an early favourite among California grapegrowers, achieved its popularity by thriving in the California sun, providing good colour and sugar at harvest and offering early drinkability. This wine exemplifies why that popularity prevails among producers and consumers alike. The vines producing it average 25-30 years in age and the wine is produced under the careful eye and exacting technique of winemaker Ted Seghesio. A small amount of Petite Syrah is added to the blend to provide additional complexity. One of the traditional best values in California Zins. Black fruit bursts from the glass and carries through on the palate with spicy, licorice overtones. Lush, rich and warm, this wine shows beautiful balance between copious ripe fruit and warm round tannins. In a word, it’s absolutely yummy now. Why wait?
2007 La Frenz Viognier
Naramata Bench, Okanagan +1016415
Viognier is a new and exciting variety for the Okanagan. Jeff Martin, winemaker at La Frenz, shows why the varietal displays great promise in the southern part of the region. This offering resembles the very best of New World Viognier. It could easily fool the most sophisticated of palates as being from the Northern Rhône, which produces the quintessential expression of the varietal. The nose radiates nuances of dried apricots, anise, tropical fruits and spices and these carry through admirably on the palate. Viognier gives its best when fully ripened, allowing for a higher alcohol level and a warm richness. And this wine delivers in spades. No surprise it has won awards internationally: plain and simple, it is one of the best expressions of Viognier available today. Very limited quantities but well worth the search. It’s a masterpiece!
N/V Codorniu “Cuvee Raventos” Brut
Penedes, Spain +723553
An excellent bubbly from Spain, cava is crafted using the same methode traditionelle employed by the Champagne houses: natural sparkle, second fermentation in bottle, a minimum of nine months’ aging. Established in 1551, Codorníu is one of the world’s oldest family wine dynasties. Reserva Raventos was released in 1997 to commemorate the 125th anniversary of Codorníu Cavas. Bright, pale yellow colour, this sparkling beauty has an intriguing nose attributable to its blend of three grape varieties: 25% Macebeo, 50% Chardonnay and 25% Xarello. The creamy texture with citrus notes tantalizes the palate and lingers refreshingly. Complex, full-bodied and elegant with persistent bubbly beads. This cava is exceptionally well-balanced and lively, with a pleasing level of acidity. It’s a well-crafted sparkler and comparatively well-priced. Drink now.
2005 “120” Unwooded Chardonnay
Santa Rita Valle del Maule, Chile +315184
Over the last decade Chilean wines have experienced exponential export growth. Why? A blessed climate, old vines untouched by philoxera and new technology in both the vineyards and wineries. Simply put, Chile is now producing some great wines at very reasonable prices and this wine is a classic example. The “120” series wines are young, fruity and easy to drink. Green apple, pineapple and lychee leap from the glass and the palate is pleased by loads of ripe fruit, unadulterated by oak aging. Round and balanced flavours with a long, lingering finish. New World Chardonnay is too often clumsily exposed to oak. This is refreshingly different and shows off its ripe fruit to maximum effect. Superb value.
Reviewed by Ivan Ivankovich
2001 Beronia Rioja “Reserva” doc
Rioja, Spain +731708
Bodegas Beronia is surrounded by the excellent vineyards of the Rioja Alta. This is a sensational blend of Tempranillo (89%), Graciano (5%) and Mazuelo (6%). Integrated and harmonious red berries and blackberry on the nose foretell much pleasure to follow. And follow, it does. This is a wine with velvety sensations, well balanced, with ripe fruit flavours that combine with dry spices. It’s warm, generous and fully integrated on the palate – sensuous and totally pleasurable. Mixed American and French oak casks are used for the aging process and the time is adjusted to the wine’s requirements. This time, it produced a wine that is elegant, rich, long and voluptuous – hedonistic pleasure in a wineglass. It’s the perfect accompaniment to meat and cheese dishes. The wine is drinking perfectly now and should hold for a few years to be sure. But why wait?
2005 “The Black Chook” Shiraz/Viognier
Woop Woop Wines South Australia +1007012
This 95% Shiraz, 5% Viognier blend proves that a well-planned marriage of red and white makes for great taste treat. A complex nose of alternating layers of red and black fruit with the telling signs of perfect ripeness. On the palate the wine is rich, textured, round and harmonious. It is the liquid equivalent of a plummy black fruit compote – dense, layered and delicious. The lengthy finish just seems to go on and on. A pleasing mouthful by any standard. That old saying, “Try it; you’ll like it” couldn’t be more appropriate!
Reviewed by Ivan Ivankovich
2004 Bleasdale “Frank Potts Blend”
Langhorne Creek South Australia +1015283
A great vintage and wonderful example of Bleasdale’s flagship wine. Graeme McDonough, International Sales and Marketing Manager for Bleasdale, recently told me that Quantas Airlines snapped up a quarter of the small production for its first class flyers. No surprise. This is a mouthwatering blend of 67% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Malbec and 15% Petit Verdot. It is ripe, generous and perfectly balanced, displaying a deep intensity of red and black fruit with definite overtones of cassis and mint. Rightfully a “first class” wine with broad appeal, it is elegant, rich and totally satisfying. Drinking beautifully at present, it should retain its plateau for about five years. Only 200 cases were allocated to Western Canada. Get yours and experience a memorable discovery.
Reviewed by Ivan Ivankovich

2004 Bodegas Julian Chivite “Gran Feudo” Crianza
Navarra, Spain +176768
Founded in 1647, Bodegas Julian Chivite is the oldest wine-producing family dynasty in Spain and is arguably the most respected producer and exporter of Navarra’s wines. The 2004 Gran Feudo Crianza is produced from selected Tempranillo, Garnacha and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes after a long-term maceration, followed by selection and racking in new American oak casks in order to encourage the maximum expression of its complexity. The first impression is one of youthful fruitiness. Ripe and plummy on the nose, with residual dark fruit aromas, this medium-bodied wine is immediately approachable. Its gentle tannins frame the pronounced red berry flavours. Round, ripe and generous, this is a palate pleaser that will please the pocketbook too. An outstanding everyday drinking value.
Reviewed by Ivan Ivankovich

2004 Bussola “BG” Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico Doc
Veneto, Italy +1001584

Giuseppe Quintarelli has been the Dean of the Valpolicella region for decades. But he has already chosen and mentored his successor: Tommaso Bussola. This “BG” Amarone, named for “Bussola, Giuseppe,” Tommaso’s uncle, shows why. It is one of the finest Amarones I have ever tasted. Primarily a blend of partially dried Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella and Molinara grapes, this fresh-styled blockbuster is warm, rich, round and luscious. An opulent bouquet of ripe blackberries predominates on the nose and multi-layered notes of black currant fruit and exotic spices explode in the mouth. The velvety mouth-feel is clean, smooth and focused and the finish goes on and on. If I could only have one bottle on a desert island, this would be a strong contender. It is totally fulfilling and satisfying.
2003 Château Meric Rouge
Graves A.C. France
Graves, named for its gravelly soil, is a famed appellation in Bordeaux. The gravel reflects the sun’s rays and distributes its warmth over the vines, while at the same time draining the soil. The result? Optimal ripening for the fruit in this 2003 blend (65% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon). Château Meric has been owned by the Barron family through seven generations and has been certified organic since 1964. Power and complexity on the nose with ripe red berries predominating. On the palate, the attack is soft, warm and satisfying – a wonderful balance between the ripeness of the fruit and the silky softness of the mellowing tannins. 2003 was indisputably a great vintage for Bordeaux and this harmonious example is drinking well now but has the backbone to continue to evolve over the next few years. Great price/quality ratio here.
Reviewed by Ivan Ivankovich
2003 Castelao Pedras do Monte
Vinho Regional Ferras do Sado +193938
The southwest of Portugal produces this winner on the quality/value scale. Copious black fruit and spice inundate the nose. Full bodied, well-balanced, great concentration and a long albeit hot, smooth finish. Excellent value!
Reviewed by Ivan Ivankovich
2006 Cedar Creek “Platinum Reserve” Chardonnay
VQA Okanagan Valley, Canada +607218
Located in the heart of the Okanagan Valley, Cedar Creek is privately owned and operated by the Fitzpatrick Family. According to winemaker Gordon Fitzpatrick, the Platinum Series are truly hand crafted wines made only in exceptional years from the estate’s very best fruit. This wine was barrel fermented exclusively in American oak and spent considerable time on its lees. The result is a blockbuster wine with creamy good weight and texture. It has great mouthfeel, good acidity and excellent balance. Production is limited to 800-900 cases but the search is worth the effort as this wine consistently ranks as one of the most outstanding Chardonnays crafted in Canada. Fitzpatrick opines that it is a “Saturday night special.” You would be very fortunate, indeed, to have it any night of the week!
Reviewed by Ivan Ivankovich
2005 Chateau Bellevue La Foret Rosé
A/C Fronton +451666
Luscious and seductive wild cherry fruit with a hint of cinnamon emanates from this gold medal-winning blend of Negrette, Syrah and Gamay. The high expectations generated carry through on the palate in this serious rosé from the Fronton appellation north of Toulouse. Especially satisfying is the subtle, spicy finish that lingers for some time. It’s absolutely delicious, versatile and is sure to please the most sophisticated palates. A superb rosé and a superb value.
Reviewed by Ivan Ivankovich
2005 Chateau de Sérame Viognier
Vin de Pays D’Oc +624395
Once only grown at the top end of the Rhone valley, the adaptable Viognier vines are now ubiquitous in the world of wine. Recent examples from the New World abound. That’s why it’s great to see an old world example that tastes so good and is priced so reasonably. Produced for the Dourthe negotiants from vineyards in the historical winegrowing estates of the Languedoc region, this Viognier is possessed of many of the nuances associated with the much more expensive Viogniers crafted in the Northern Rhone. This is a full-bodied, golden-hued wine with a tantalizing yet elusive lemongrass, blossom and peach bouquet. Rich and unctuous, it will definitely appeal to those who like Gewurtztraminer, and it will find some new converts among those who want an intriguing alternative to Chardonnays and Sauvignon Blancs. Well-made wine for current drinking.
Reviewed by Ivan Ivankovich
2005 Church & State Wines Chardonnay
Dekleva Family Vineyard VQA Okanagan Valley, Canada
This is a truly extraordinary Chardonnay and it shows why the Okanagan is considered by many to be Canada’s premier wine-growing region. The Dekleva Family Vineyard was planted in 1971 and lies high on the “Golden Mile Bench” located on the western slope of the Oliver Valley. The winery, on the other hand, is located a short drive from downtown Victoria in the Saanich Peninsula and strives to produce only premium and super premium wines. This memorable wine is presently only available in very limited quantities in B.C. although the winery’s “Church Mouse” series of wines can be found in Alberta. The “Dekleva” Chardonnay justifiably earns its “premium” status – it’s luscious yet elegant and demonstrates refined nuances of citrus and tropical fruit, notably pineapple. The finish goes on and on at great length. The label asserts that the wine has a “heavenly taste” and earthly saints would be delighted to find some at the pearly gates! Master winemaker Bill Dyer was a driving force behind Napa Valley winemaking for over 27 years. This chardonnay clearly enjoys the benefit of his insight and expertise.
Reviewed by Ivan Ivankovich
2003 Church Block
Wirra Wirra Vineyards McLaren Vale, Australia +019380
One of the signature wines of Wirra Wirra, this blend of 50% Shiraz, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Merlot is a blend of many different vineyards and differing exposures to oak. An untypical Aussie, it is a happy blend of ripe Australian black fruit with the elegance of a mid-range Bordeaux. It’s a stunning achievement at a modest price. 45,000 cases produced. This wine delivers on every level – most highly recommended.
Reviewed by Ivan Ivankovich
2005 Clos de los Siete
Michel Rolland Mendoza, Argentina +128710
Michel Rolland is the world’s best-known traveling wine consultant. He is loved and hated just like Robert Parker. There’s no doubt, however, that both have raised the bar for quality over the last two decades. This clos comprises seven vineyards in the foothills of the Andes. Managed by Michel Rolland and exhibiting his total commitment to a qualitative, fruit-oriented approach to modern winemaking, this venture brings together a team of like-minded men and women sharing a true passion for wine. And – wow – does that passion show. Distributed by the Dourthe negotiants of Bordeaux, this is an opulent, fruit-driven Argentine wine with soft tannins. It is truly memorable and the one word that best describes it is, simply, “delicious.” It’s a one-of-a-kind bargain that will improve over the next year and a half. Recommend it and receive your applause.
Reviewed by Ivan Ivankovich
2006 Concha y Toro Syrah “Marques de Casa Concha”
DO Puemo, Chile +1015813
Inky purple in the glass, this delightful new offering from Concha y Toro has pronounced blueberry/blackberry aromas leaping from the glass. A favourite of winemaker Marcelo Papa, it’s a huge, ripe Chilean example of this popular varietal made from 100% Syrah grown in the northern part of the Rapel Valley. The wine is aged in French oak for 16 months. Ripe, round tannins and exotic, peppery spices accentuate the intense black fruit flavours. It’s a big wine with a long, smooth finish that’s delicious now but will improve considerably over the next few years. Great value. Sadly, this is only the second vintage and availability in Western Canada is somewhat limited. Happily, Gabriel Salas from the winery recently announced plans for increased production of this winner.
Reviewed by Ivan Ivankovich
2005 Cookoothama “Darlington Point” Chardonnay
Nugan Estate, Australia +624809
Put simply, this is my best white wine discovery of the past year for price/quality! A Burgundy-like nose with rich, ripe aromas of peach, melon, hazelnuts and vanilla with a light touch of oak. Refined palate of peaches and cream with just the right amount of acidity. The flavour development in this wine is really notable. One word of advice: this wine is best consumed not too cold, so as to maximize its elegance and nuances. Hats off to Nugan for producing a wonderful wine at a price that is so affordable!
Reviewed by Ivan Ivankovich
2005 d’Arenberg “The Last Ditch” Viognier
McLaren Vale/Adelaide Hills +1001660
D’Arenberg is best known for its red wines from the McLaren Vale region of Australia. In the mid-1990s Chester Osborn, the colourful owner/winemaker, planted McLaren Vale’s first Viognier vines along a tributary of a vineyard creek known as “The Last Ditch.” Hand-harvested and gently basket-crushed, the fruit in this eighth vintage is quite prominent. Peaches, lychee and tropical fruits provide an inviting impression. The natural fermentation and nine months in French oak barriques provide a round, polished finish that lingers on the palate. A very well-made, new-world Viognier that leaves a memorable and favourable impression.
Reviewed by Ivan Ivankovich
N/V Pinot Grigio “Barefoot Bubbly”
California, U.S.A. +729994
Pinot Grigio is one of the hottest varietals in Western Canada right now. So, what better time for an everyday Pinot Grigio with a little sparkle, effervescence and verve? Think of the delicious crispness of Pinot Grigio with the refreshing sensation of bubbles. This wine is simple but delicious with citrusy, pleasantly tart flavours and a tantalizing orange finish. Originally introduced as a summer pleaser, this versatile sparkler would satisfy year-round. After all, the wine successfully captures the California spirit in a bottle – so why not appeal to that spirit when the summer heat is a distant memory in Western Canada? Try it with a wide range of casual fare like salads, veggies, fresh fruit and lighter Mediterranean cuisine. This one puts a smile on your face!
Reviewed by Ivan Ivankovich

 

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